Adding An Electrical Box

and Hiding Cables Like A Pro

All the electronics on the market lately are filling up our homes. There is an increasing need for more electric outlets throughout our homes. Some useful tips on how to create an electrical extension are outlined in this article.

The most common need people have is adding an additional outlet box. They never are where you need them! As with anything electrical, take proper precautions against electrical shocks and know your local codes for proper cable types, shielding plates, etc.

Sometimes it just your lucky day and the room on the other side of wall has an outlet that is very close. Back to back is ideal but even one stud off is not a problem. Just make sure the circuit won't be overloaded by adding an additional set of plugs.

Use a stud finder and find out where the adjacent studs are for where you want to put the outlet box. Depending on the type of box you have, either cut out the proper size hole next to the stud or somewhere in the center. I prefer the renovation boxes with the tabs that are designed to fit in the drywall away from the studs. Align your box hole so it isn't directly behind the other box as two deep boxes won't fit back to back in a two by four stud wall.

If you are within the same studs, it is now a simple matter of running the proper wire or conduit from the old box to the new one. If you need to go one stud over, cutting your hole close to the stud makes it a little easier. From the box hole access, drill a hole in the center of the stud following proper guidelines to maintain structural integrity. Keep the hole size at a minimum and no more than 40% of the stud width.

If instead you want to extend power from an existing box in the room, there are several ways to run the wire between the boxes. One common method is to remove the baseboard trim. Then cut out some of the wall board behind the baseboard and make small notches (not to exceed 25% of the stud width) in each stud or drill holes in the center of each stud to run the cable for the extension. After installing the cable, make sure to use steel plates on each stud if you did notches to prevent any drywall screws from penetrating the wires.

If you drilled holes in the center and come to a corner, it can sometimes be problematic when it is solid. You need to drill a hole from each side until they meet. Then either fish something flexible through the hole or use two fish tapes with a hook on the end and get them to catch. Put lots of lube on the cable and pull it through.

Going around doors is a similar exercise. The best way is to remove the trim molding and usually there is enough room with minimal notching to run the cable around the door.

If you have a10BBttic or basement access, there is another way to run new cable. Drill holes through the plate where the existing circuit is and where you want to add an additional outlet. Sometimes you will run into fire stops or cross braces in the middle of the wall. If you are putting in a switch, many times you can get close enough from the switch box hole to drill through the brace. Otherwise you will need to cut out a small section of wallboard and make a notch.

There are a number of safe and effective ways to add electrical outlets throughout your home without damage and lots of work. With the use of smart safety procedures, following local codes, and some electrical work you can have extensions in all of the places your home needs.

Alison Leaderman is in charge of online marketing for Ready Electric Wholesale Lighting and Electrical Supplies business. Ready Electric is a well established electric supply company for contractors and has established an e-commerce website to serve both contractors and the public with discount lighting fixtures.

What Tape Do I Use

Vinyl Tapes Are Versatile, Tailored to Many Purposes

A vinyl tape can come in many forms -1C61 packaging tape, barrier tape, chart and map tapes, color-coding tapes, conspicuous reflective tapes, decorative tapes, electrical tapes, and so on.

We look at some of these purposes and tape characteristics in a little more detail below.

Sealing and Packaging Tape: These are used to package cartons and parcels, are usually self-adhesive, and come transparent or in different colors. Vinyl tapes are excellent for printing, and they can be printed with handling instructions or promotional messages.

Barrier Tape: Used to mark off restricted areas such as police investigation scenes, barricade tapes are wider, non-adhesive and come in highly visible colors and patterns.

Chart & Map Tapes: These adhesive vinyl tapes can be used on different surfaces to create charts, graphs, etc.

Color Coding Tapes: Colored plain vinyl tapes can be used for identificatory marking, on glassware and tools, on factory floors, and so on.

Reflective Tapes: Reflective tapes are used to make things conspicuous, such as vehicles parked in dark surroundings, for large trucks and trailers and other areas.

Decorative Tapes: These help add glitter to event venues. There are mirror tapes, glitter tapes, prismatic tapes, holographic tapes and such.

Electrical Tapes: Thicker than usual, these insulation tapes come in different colors, and protect you from electric shocks.

Camouflage Tapes: Where you want to merge into your surroundings, and avoid attracting unwanted attention from hunted animals or wildlife and such, easily-removed camouflage tapes in different patterns can come in handy. While camouflage tapes might not be vinyl tapes, some are coated with that material for special effects.

Flagging Tapes: Flagging tapes can be used for surveying, trail marking, search & rescue operations, forestry and environmental studies, for example.

Gaffer Tape: Made of vinyl impregnated cloth, the thick gaffer tape has high adhesion properties and is used to secure wires, cables and props at conventions, film shoots, etc.

Marking Tapes: Colored and striped marking tapes are used to mark out plant and warehouse floors, and for other applications. These tapes are highly resistant to heat and other degrading agents.

Hazard Tapes: Another kind of tape that has applications in plants and warehouses, these tapes are used to warn of physical hazards and to mark out areas by functions.

Conclusion

Vinyl is used for and in many kinds of tapes for a large number of applications. These tapes come in different colors, widths, patterns, thickness and other properties to meet the differing requirements of the applications. Vinyl tape is easy to print upon and is ideal as packaging tape, barrier tape and other applications where information needs to be printed on the tape itself. The printing facility can also be used for promotional purposes.

Then there are tapes that are highly reflective in the dark, or add glitter to events, serve as camouflage or insulate electrical contacts.

Vinyl tapes are thus a highly versatile item with many uses.

About Auther:
Anthony Abram writes about Vinyl Tape please visit our website for further details.

Drywalling Your House Ideas

Installing Drywall

Quality Photographs Help Sell Your Home Mortgage Lenders Help You Help Yourself The Problem Is Where Do Termites Live

Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the professionals usually refer to the task, can be done by the homeowner. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry.

Measuring and Ordering Drywall

Prior to actually hanging the drywall, the material first needs to be ordered and delivered. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. The result should give you the number of 4’x 8’ sheets of drywall required for the job. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4’x12’, however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home.

For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.

For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock.

Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects.

Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required. Typically I use 1.25” length screws or nails. Also, strips of corner bead will be required.

Drywall Tools

Prior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain the proper tools. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. You can rent Dryw all Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2”x 4”s. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than the height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3’ in width. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the main stem of the Jack. The Jack can then be used to hold up the drywall to the ceiling while it is screwed/nailed into place.

In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.

If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. For the taping knifes you will need a 6” wide blade and a 12” wide blade.

Preparing the site for Drywall

Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure the buildig inspector has first approved the Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.

Finally, inspect all of the framing carefully. Ensure that nailers (e.g. 2” x 4”s) are existent at each corner and header, that the framing is straight, and that the framed walls create smooth planes. In addition, the ceiling should have strapping applied (1” x 3” cross boards). Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire.

Safety

Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in the material. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades.

Installing Drywall

Start with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.g. 12 inches. It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field afterwards.

Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall.

After the ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to the walls. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. Again the rows should be staggered. The bottom piece should sit about ½ inches from the sub-floor.

For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. This will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save significant time.

Installing Corner bead

Once the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges. Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the framing.

Taping and Mudding

Again start with the ceiling. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6” wide taping knife. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Once the tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over the tape, again using the 6” wide taping knife. Continue this for all of the seams. Note: the tape will still be visible. Additional coats will eventually hide it.

The inside corners are usually the most tricky and require practice. Patience is the best advice and note that additional coats will be applied later to smooth out any imperfections.

Once the seams are done, using the 6” wide taping knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. A skim coat is all that is initially required.

Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. This will reduce sanding later.

Once the ceiling is done, you can move on to the walls. Repeat the same process, however with the outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint compound to the valley that is formed by the corner bead. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner.

Once the first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Second Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the second coat of mud. It is this coat that should hide the tape.

Again, start with the ceiling. Using the wider taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound over the taped seams as you want to build up the area over the tape. Taking large strokes smooth the joint compound over the tape applying more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape. This will help to leave more mud over the tape. When complete, the mud should cover an area that extends beyond the width of the tape by 2 to 3 inches.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.

For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the Corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Take long, even strokes. A 6” taping knife may also be helpful to smooth out any imperfections.

For the outside corners, using the broad taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and flare out the material such that it extends out 6 inches or so from the corner. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the outside corner.

Once the second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Final Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the final coat of mud. It is this coat that requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to the already mudded areas.

Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded surfaces. This will remove any bumps or ridges.

Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife. Again continue to flare out the seam by extending the mudded area such that about 6 inches resides on each side of the now invisible tape. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter.

For the corners use the broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples.

Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,

Sanding

Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask. I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud.

Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into the main surface areas.

Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the dust and you are ready for priming and painting the walls and texturing the ceilings.

Me_Donovan@comcast.net
http://www.homeadditionplus.com
http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com/

Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. Mr. Donovan's formal education and profession have been as an Electrical Engineer and Marketing Manager.

Finishing a House

Buying an Unfinished Home Maybe Your Answer
By: Mark J. Donovan



For the first time “want-to-be” homeowner, purchasing an unfinished new home maybe just the answer. With mortgage interest rates still at record lows, there has not been a better time to purchase a home in decades. However, home prices have dramatically risen over the past several years, and even with low interest rates, for some the dream of owing one’s own home has still remained out of reach.

Purchasing an unfinished home can save tens of thousands of dollars, thus enabling some prospective homeowners the opportunity to buy a house that they may not have otherwise afforded. Unfinished homes are particularly attractive to young couples with no children and who have limited financial resources. The unfinished home concept allows the young couple to grow/finish the home as their family and financial resources do. In addition, if the new homeowners are willing to put in sweat equity they can save significantly on finishing the home.

Typically an unfinished home has a completed kitchen, living room, bath, and at least one bedroom. This is pretty much required by mortgage lenders and buildig inspectors as the home would otherwise be considered unacceptable for living standards. In many two story unfinished homes, the entire upstairs maybe left unfinished.

When purchasing an unfinished home there are a few items to consider first, such as; what is the expected timeline for finishing the house, what is the expected completed floor plan and who will complete it. All these questions should be answered prior to signing a Purchase and Sales agreement. For example, if more bedrooms will be required prior to when the homeowner anticipates finishing the home, then an unfinished home purchase may not be the right solution. Secondly, ask the builder/prior homeowner for a copy of the floor plan of the completed home. Usually a builder/prior homeowner has these, and it will help immensely when the time comes to complete the unfinished space. Changes to these floor plans are typically feasible, however, it is important to talk with the buildig inspector prior to beginning the project. Also, in the case of new construction, you may want to negotiate with the builder to complete a portion of the unfinished area, such as the rough framing, electric or plumbing. Finally, you need to determine who will complete the work and assess how much, if any, sweat equity you are willing to contribute. In either case, building permits will need to be pulled prior to any work.

Purchasing an unfinished home can be the means to fulfilling the American dream. For many, it is also a way to buy a larger home, once completed. For others, it enables them to not sacrifice quality in their initial home purchase. Whatever the reason, the purchase of an unfinished home has traditionally been an excellent investment.

About The Author


Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com.

Building Wood Stairs

By: Dave Markel
Building a set of wood stairs is not nearly as hard as you may think. With some basic wood tools and a bit of algebra you can easily build your own. Of course this can get a bit tricky for stairs with several landings but the method is still the same.
This article will cover the steps for building a straight set of stairs. Chances are if you are reading this then you are still learning and won't be taking on a complex stair anyway.
Now, we will assume that it is from a deck to a concrete pad. The deck is going to be 48" wide and at eye level from the ground.
Tools you will need:
Circular saw
Framing square
Hand saw
Carpenters pencil
Measuring tape
4' Level
Masking tape
You will also need:
3 @ 10' / 2" x 12" boards - Choose the best only, make sure they are straight with no check (cracks). Very Important!
2 @ 8' / 2" x 4" boards
8 @ 8' / 2" x 6" boards - Once again choose the good ones. These are going to be the steps so...
1 @ 45" / 2" x 6" boards
1 sheet of plywood @ 1/2" / 8" x 48"
Of course, 3-1/2" framing nails and deck screws or nails for the steps.
Find the overall rise
We want to know the exact vertical distance from the top of the concrete pad to the top of the deck. Take one of the 8' 2x4's and rest one end on the deck and hold the other over the pad, Place the level on the 2x4 and level the board. Then simply measure from the bottom of the 2x4 to the pad. Lets say it is 64". This is the overall rise.
Now determine the overall run
Before we can do this we have to determine how many steps we need.
So first..
Take the overall rise, 64", and divide it by 7.25", which is the typical height of 1 riser (step). This gives us 8.83, which rounds up to 9, So we will go with 9 risers.
Important: There is always 1 less tread then risers. Whether you go up or down the last step is onto the deck or the pad. So 1 less tread.
Now we take 10.5", the width of a typical step, and multiply it by 8. This gives us 84". This is the overall run.
While we are doing the math we need to figure out the exact rise of each step. We simply take the overall rise of 64" and divide it by 9 and we get 7.111" or 7-1/8", or close enough to it. So each riser will be 7-1/8".
Time for some layout
First thing. Grab your framing square. The long leg is the tread (step) leg and the short leg is the riser leg. Also, use the numbers on the outside of the square only.
Take some masking tape and wrap a piece around the framing square to establish you rise and run. Mark 10.5" on the outside of the long leg and 7-1/8" on the outside of the short leg.
Layout one of the 2x12's on your saw horses or work bench. WIth the long leg of your framing square towards the end of the board start to line up the tape marks to the edge of the board facing you. Once you have the square in position mark the outside edge of it with your pencil.
Continue to do this until you have the required number of steps, 8 in this case. This first riser is always shorter by the thickness of the steps, for us that is 1.5". This makes the first riser 5-5/8".
Cut 'em out
Now use you circular saw to cut out the stringers (technical name for 2x12 with stair marks on it) being sure to cut on the waste side of the line. When you cut into the corner with a circular saw the blade misses some of the wood on the bottom side of the board. This is fine, simply cut up to the line and stop, then finish the cut with your hand saw.
Now use the first stringer as a template for the other two. Lay the stringer onto the 2x12's and trace around it. Then cut out the other stringers the same as the first.
Reinforce the stringers
Align one of the 8' 2x4's along the bottom edge of the string and mark it to fit the profile of the ends of the stringers. Cut the 2x4 and secure it to the bottom edge of the stringer. Repeat this for one other stringer. These help to strengthen the stringers and reduce "bounce" in the stairs. Use the framing nails to secure them.
Assemble the stairs
The plywood is used to attach the stairs to the deck. Secure the sheet of plywood to the top end of the stringers. The two outside stringers are nailed flush with the edge of the plywood while the third stringer is centered on the sheet. Simply nail through the plywood into the face of the stringers using framing nails. 4 into each stringer will be enough.
Now take the 45" 2x6 and nail it in between the bottom of the outside stringers. The 2x6 will fit into the notch cut into the center stringer. This provides the right spacing for the bottom of the stairs and secures them to the pad.
Attach them to the deck
Move the stairs into their final position. make sure they are level across the stringers and that the risers are plumb. When the stairs are positioned correctly nail through the plywood into the side of the deck. Use some 3" concrete nails to secure the 2x6 spacer to the concrete pad.
Install the treads
Cut the 8 - 8' 2x6's in half, be sure to cut them square. Starting at the bottom of the stairs, start placing the 2x6 stair treads. Simply center them on the stringers and use some 3"deck nails to attach them. You can also use an exterior adhesive to assure that they don't move.
Continue to work your way up the stairs until you reach the top.
You are done... well, almost
Railings. You need to install a railing to keep people from falling off.
About The Author
Dave Markel is the author of "The All Wood Working Journal". He has helped hundreds of individuals improve their wood working skills. Visit his site at http://all-wood-working-plans.com/.

Choosing The Right Wood For Your Deck -

Ease Of Working With Tools

By: Malcolm D Kay
If you’re planning on building a wood deck yourself, one of the important considerations is the degree of difficulty in working with the lumber chosen. Not only do you want the lumber to be relatively easy to cut with normal hand or power tools, but you need to consider if splitting may easily occur when nailing, how easy it is to drive nails into the wood, and how easy it is to obtain a smooth finish on the surface of the decking.

The surface finish of course is taken care of by the lumber mill. But even with the best mills, for some exceptionally hard species you may notice machining marks remaining on the surface or a surface roughness due to lifting of the grain whilst machining.

Cutting
Most durable hardwood species are both dense and hard and should ideally be cut with a carbide tipped saw. For softwood species, a handsaw can be quite OK, but even in this case, a carbide tipped saw makes the job a lot easier and quicker.
With some hardwood species such as Teak and Turpentine, rapid blunting of cutting edges can occur due to the presence of a higher than normal level of silica. Ipe is another species which can cause blunting of cutting edges and care also needs to be taken when working with Ipe due to the fine yellow dust produced when sawing or drilling, as it has been known to cause dermatitis with some workers exposed to the dust.

Nailing
Splitting when nailing is a common problem and some species are more prone to splitting than others. For many hardwood species, pre-drilling will be virtually essential, although use of a nail gun can overcome this requirement to some extent. Even with some of the more brittle softwoods and in particular cypress species, care needs be taken when nailing. If nailing close to the end of the decking planks, pre-drilling is always recommended to avoid stress in the timber which may cause to cracks to develop at later stage.

If using nails to fix the planks to bearers and the deck is fully exposed to the weather, standard iron nails should not be used as they will rust. Instead you should use galvanized nails or nails specifically designed for exterior use. Another point to note is that some lumber species can corrode iron fixings or fastenings due to the extractives in the wood. Although this will only occur when the deck is situated in exposed weather conditions, it can speed up the corrosion of standard iron nails and cause them to fail quite rapidly. Western Red Cedar is one such species with extractives that can cause corrosion and some other species which are slightly acidic such as Kempas, can also cause corrosion with standard iron nails.

Drilling

Similar precautions need to be taken against corrosion if using screws rather than nails to fix the planks to the bearers. Stainless steel screws are certainly the best option, but plated screws could be considered provided they are recommended for exterior exposure. Remember that as the head of screw is much larger than a nail, rust stains will be more of a problem and can leave unsightly black marks around the screw holes if inappropriate screws are used.
Alternative fixing devices

A number of alternative fixing materials are also available which have the advantage of leaving the surface free of nail holes or screw holes. These systems generally rely on a fastening device which is driven into the side of the planks and attached to the bearers below. The only obvious drawback of this system is that replacing a single plank if damaged or decayed in any way can only be achieved by nailing or screwing the replacement plank back in place in the conventional manner.
Alternative wood decking materials

If you don’t want to build a deck yourself but just wish to cover an old patio with solid wood decking, another quick and convenient option is to use wood decking tiles. These tiles just click into place on top of an existing deck or patio and eliminate the need for cutting, drilling and nailing. You may need to cut a few tiles to fit around pipes, posts etc but that’s all. For further details see http://www.deckingtiles.com./ They can also be used to repair an existing wood deck by just placing the tiles over the top of the existing deck.

About The Author
Malcolm Kay is the CEO of Intex Pacific Pty. Ltd. an international supplier of landscape materials including modular decking tiles. For more information see http://www.deckingtiles.com/.

Options for Cleaning Your Carpet

A majority of the dry soil can be removed by vacuum cleaning. However, you need to clean your carpet on a regular basis to get rid of the oily, sticky soil that builds up in the pile. Odors and dirt that is tracked in from outside create this sticky soil.

If you clean your carpet before it becomes terrible, the cleaning job will be easier to accomplish and very much successful. The carpet with the average family should be cleaned every 12 - 18 months. It depends on the number of persons living in the home and the amount of traffic that walks on the carpet.

Choosing the right vacuum is crucial as well. Certain vacuums leave residues behind, which helps re-soiling.

Your best option is to hire professional carpet cleaners because their experience will allow them to do a much better job than you can do yourself. Professional cleaners use the equipment that has more extraction power and the carpet will dry faster as well. They know what cleaning agents to employ, and they understand the differences in carpet fibers.

If you have decided to do the job yourself and rent a steam cleaning machine, you should try out a number of systems before you make a choice. A good number of the rented units do not clean properly enough and may damage your carpet. For that reason, you should always take into account the following:

- Some rental companies provide cleaning equipment that is similar to what the professionals use. The equipment should produce a sufficient amount of vacuum power to allow the carpet to dry within 12 hours of cleaning. Avoid units that do not produce the power to remove the cleaning solution from the carpet fast enough, since it can hurt your carpet because of over wetting.

- Do not over wet your carpet. Any extended dampness can cause mildew growth and bacteria in the carpet, or bring about a separation of the backing. A carpet that stays wet for longer than one day can cause problems.

- If you plan stain resistant treatments, your carpet must be cleaned with products thatare formulated for this task. Do not use cleaning or spotting solutions that contain bleaches because they can ruin the color of the carpet.

- Do not use silicone based treatments on your carpet.

The system called hot water extraction is strongly recommended. It is considered one of the best methods for carpet cleaning. This system is also known as steam cleaning. You spray a mixture of water and detergent into the pile and recover the water and soil with a strong vacuum. This system is perfect for soiled carpets or pet stains.

Protect your carpet against paint drips, snow, mud, dirt, stains, and heavy traffic conditions. Read about plastic carpet protections as well as temporary carpet protection.