When Finishing Your Attic is the Best Choice, And When It Isn't

When trying to increase the amount of living space in a home, there are several options to consider. Remodeling or finishing an attic into needed living space is certainly one option. There are others, as well. These include finishing a basement or garage or adding onto your existing home.

The decision about how you will add living space must factor in such considerations as cost, available space to place an addition, the intended use of the space, and the ability to provide appropriate access to the new area. You will need to think through each of these considerations in making a decision.

In considering cost, the critical points to review are these:

If you work with an existing space (basement, attic, garage) you should not incur the expense of a roof, exterior walls, or foundation, unlike a traditional addition or 2nd story, which may need a foundation, several exterior walls, and a foor

You should consider the return on your investment. If you can add a room, bathroom or other living space that increases your home at a small expense, it is likely to give you one of the highest rates of return.

Is it reasonable to include an additional bathroom?114D Adding a bathroom will increase the value of your home, but you must consider the costs incurred in building it. For example, will construction of a bathroom in an attic require reinforcement of the walls to support the weight?

If you wish to do the work yourself, are you better prepared to finish an existing space or build an addition? Do you know enough about insulating and wiring a attic or a basement?

What are the implications of your choice in terms of the adequacy of your current heating and cooling system? Will you need new ductwork or an auxiliary furnace or AC unit?

You can get an instant online estimate for finishing your attic at http://www.remodelestimates.com/calculators/intor.cfm?ver=21.

The next question is whether there is space for an addition to your home. Here are some questions to consider:

Will local building codes and zoning laws allow an addition?

How much yard will you have left after you build the addition?

Will local building codes and zoning laws allow the type of addition you are planning and the type of materials you plan to use?

How will you provide access from the existing structure into the new living space? How much change to the existing structure will be required?

The intended use of the new space might argue against a particular choice. For example, if you plan to use the new space as a home office, you might need to consider such things as:

Will you need external access to the space?

How much heavy equipment will be placed in the area? Will that weight require reinforcement of the floors or walls?

Alternatively, if the space is to be used as a bedroom or playroom, you should consider such things as:

Are there special accessibility issues (for example, someone with a disability or an aging parent)?

Do you need to add a bathroom, or is another bathroom close enough?

How will you provide adequate lighting (for example, adding a gable or a skylight)?

Does your basement offer a dry enough environment?

Finally, you will need to understand and accommodate access issues. A few of the more critical questions to consider are these:

Do local building codes require more than one means of access or egress from the room?

Can you plan for emergency escape?

How will you ensure adequate ventilation?

How much change to the existing home will be required in order to provide access to the new living space?

These are some of the major questions to consider when deciding whether finishing an attic is the best choice for your home and your family. By taking these factors into consideration you can evaluate whether finishing an attic is the best decision for your family and your current home. By calculating the cost, considering modifications to your existing home and yard, how the new space will be used, and what other changes are required to provide access, you can make a wise decision. If you are considering an attic remodel, I strongly recommend reviewing the Attic Remodeling Workbook available at www.amazon.com to ensure that you understand the complexities and challenges involved.

Attic Remodeling is very likely to be the solution to your need for additional space. These questions will help you ask the most important questions and make a wise decision.

Dan Fritschen, the author of this article, is the founder of the websites
http://www.remodelormove.com
http://www.remodelestimates.com and
http://www.remodelingorganizer.com

He is the author of three books on home remodeling.

Handsaw

All Types Of Conservatories

Victorian, Gazebo, Georgian and Edwardian are some of the conservatory sun room styles you can select from, a range of wood types to build your sun room, including oak, maple, cedar, mahogany and fir. They provide maximum insulation thereby increasing energy efficiency. The glass room controls the air temperature inside, even during extreme climatic conditions. These patio room enclosures are best suited for regions with a breathtaking view, by allowing maximum space for viewing the lands5B4cape. The English-Style conservatories are well known for their classic design and elegant look and feel, you can select from a range of decorative Victorian sun room conservatories to the magnificent Georgian structures.

Features of Sun room Conservatories

These conservatories have their respective architectural plans. They are provided with beautiful windows of various frames, you can also select from a range of stained glass to add a personalized touch to the conservatory. The doors and windows can be provided with multi point lock facility for added security. Instead of glass, if you use polycarbonate multi-ply for the roof you will get increased insulation, they only allow the soft light to diffuse inside the room. The walls have multiple chambers and the PVC used to make the walls of the sun room is reinforced with metal to provide more strength to the structure. This feature also makes the conservatories more durable. You can derive greater ventilation by fitting the turn and tilt windows. In times of bad weather conditions, these windows can be tilted in such an angle that they provide the necessary ventilation with allowing the adverse weather to affect indoor atmosphere, they can also be opened to 90 angle. giving you unrestricted view of outside environment.

Conservatory Design and Style

The conservatories can be built according to a number of designs and styles. Some of the common styles and designs5B4 include Victorian conservatory, Georgian conservatory, Edwardian conservatory, Mediterranean conservatory and Pavilion conservatory. The Victorian models sometimes have aluminum exterior and interior finish, they are provided with interlocked window and door sashes with thermal panels. You can select a number of systems for your doors and windows from fixed to dual, removable screens to sliding ones, child secure handles to double lock, in place of aluminum, you can also have wood interiors. They can have aluminum exteriors with laminated wooden beams and thermal panels. The windows can have various attachments including double security lock, awnings, grills, and casement windows. You can place French doors or even single swing and sliding doors, you can even have the Victorian conservatories clad with vinyl. They have low maintenance cost and the construction is energy efficient, they are available with the French swing doors or the sliding doors with glazed roof panels. The Double Victorian style is a hybrid variation with Victorian arcs and Edwardian columns.

The Edwardian conservatories are usually built with a corner facet of 45, they have a typical vaulted ceiling that is often made up of stained glass, they usually run parallel to the house and are best suited for conventional houses. The Georgian conservatory provides you with spacious rooms made of glass that are economical and are energy efficient, they are provided w5B4ith insulated roofing and thermal panels with interlocked window and door sashes, they have quad doors or swinging French doors with removable screens and have child proof door knobs with double locking system.

Extending The Room With Conservatories

Your rooms can be extended to form the conservatory patio rooms, porches, full glass rooms and the three or four season sun rooms. The patios allow the fresh air to enter, but stop insects and unwanted intruders from entering. But most of the time using this room is done only in summer or when the chill is not there in the air. You can build the sun room on an existing structure or just convert a room into a sun room depending on your needs. Some of the conservatory sun rooms make use of the heating and cooling system of the house to regulate the room temperature of the glass enclosed area. If this facility is not provided, you can easily install the system in the conservatory. The conservatories facing the North require fewer blinds as they are the coldest. On the contrary, the South facing ones are really warm and require constant ventilation in the form of open windows, vents on roofs and tinted roof. The West facing conservatories gets the benefit of the evening light of the sun, while the East facing one gets the morning sun and is best suited as a breakfast room. Conservatories sure do add charm to family relationships by bringing all the family members together in the morn491ing and in the evening to share the outdoor environment and enjoy the beauty of the surrounding landscape. If well planned, they become the ideal place to relax and indulge in your favorite pastime.

Andrew Caxton is a journalist who has written more articles and newsletters on the subject for http://www.allsunrooms.com For additional information regarding sunrooms or patio rooms go to conservatory sunroom.

Building Choices That Will Change The Price Of Your Sunroom

Your specific home will have its individual aspects that will make your sunroom construction options and sunroom pricing possibilities different from your neighbor or family members home. However, starting with people who already have a sunroom is a good way to get an idea of what features you want your sunroom to have. For example, if you want an aluminum sunroom with few windows and a solid roof, youre looking at a much less expensive option than a full glass sunroom with wood beam construction. So here are a few factors which will affect your sunroom pricing when you are exploring sunroom construction.

Foundation Considerations That Will Affect Sunroom Prices

When you are building your sunroom, you start with the foundation. However, that foundation must be in compliance with the building codes of your local area. These codes will vary in part due to the climate that you live in. For example, if you have a considerable amount of freezing during winter, then the foundation will have to be deeper than in warmer climates. This will mean more expense in labor and materials. Then you will need to level or grade the area that you are preparing for your sunroom. If you have an existing deck, certain types of sunrooms can be built on top of them, saving you time and money. But again, it depends on your local building codes. However, if you are building an addition from scratch you will do best for stability and insulation to start with a slab foundation. It is a good base for all kinds of sunroom construction. If you cannot grade and level your construction area, then you will need to build a framed foundation, with concrete or cement block outer walls.

Roof Choices and Sunroom Cost

For many homeowners, the roof of their sunroom is not something that they have to think about. They want it to be a solid barrier from the sunlight, allowing the sunroom to get its exposure only from the full or partially glass walls. For others, however, they plan to have a number of skylights in the otherwise solid room. And still more would like their entire room to be made of glass so that they can take full advantage of the room as a potential greenhouse as well as a warm place to spend cool days. The cost of the framing on the roof itself will be done in a traditional construction manner, though the type of material used will affect the price greatly. These material types will be discussed more in the following section. But whats important to remember about the roof is that the more skylights you have, the more expensive the construction will be.

Material Choices for Sunroom Construction

There are a number of choices in materials for building your sunroom. The material you choose will greatly affect the cost of your sunroom not just at construction, but in the future in regards to heating, cooling and maintenance costs as well. The first material is PVC. This is the cheapest material that can be used for sunrooms. It has a number of additional advantages as well; it offers a high level of insulation in order to keep heating and cooling costs lower, it is available in a variety of colors, and it takes very little maintenance. The one drawback is that you will not be able to use it on certain historic buildings. Next in cost is aluminum. An aluminum sunroom is very similar to PVC, but doesnt do quite as good a job at insulating. However, it does have low maintenance issues and can come in a number of styles and colors in order to coordinate with your existing home covering. The most expensive material you can choose is wood. For many people, they prefer wood because it is more traditional, and because they can stain or paint it to custom colors in order to match their home exactly. However, there is one tradeoff besides the higher cost it will also require maintenance from time to time.

A Major Factor in Sunroom Prices Your Windows

Windows in a sunroom are probably the greatest variable in sunroom pricing. Not only does the number of windows that you choose make a difference, but so does the type. If they are fixed, they will be less expensive than if they open. If you choose a size window that is the standard type and size sold, then you will have less expense than if you request a custom-insulation. The type of glaze that you choose to put on the windows will matter as well. You can get windows that control the amount of sunlight that enters, ones that block out damaging rays and even ones that help control the temperature of the room. But the more your windows can do, the more expensive they are bound to be.

Andrew Caxton is a consultant who writes on many consumer topics like house additions and home decorating at http://www.allsunrooms.com . For additional information regarding costs, budgets or patio room designs go to sunroom prices.

Concrete
Home Design

Protect Your Home Against Weather Disasters

The recent destruction caused by Hurricanes Katrina and Rita serves as a reminder of the type of havoc Mother Nature can cause. Water, wind, fire and earth movement can be hazardous to your home, perhaps your most cherished and largest investment. But, there are actions you can take now to protect your property and prevent major damage should one of these elements strike. Depending on the age of your home and the building codes in your area, some of these improvements may already be in place.

Water

Apart from major flooding, most damage occurs when water seeps in through cracks and leaks. Make sure that windows and doors are well sealed. Seal any cracks and holes in the foundation and exterior walls. Repair or replace roof shingles around any area that allows water to penetrate the roof sheathing. Check for holes or air leaks in the attic and basement. Your basement windows and doors should have built-up barriers or flood shields. Inspect your sump pump regularly to make sure that it is working properly. Install or make sure that the flashing, a thin metal strip, around the doors, windows, thresholds, chimney and roof are in tact.

Wind

Minimize the damage by keeping the wind from getting inside your home. Windows and glass doors should be fitted with impact-resistant laminated glass or covered with impact-resistant shutters. Consider solid wood or hollow metal doors, which are more likely to resist wind pressure and flying debris. There are also roofing products with high wind resistance available.

Wildfire

Some inexpensive home improvements that you can make include installing a spark arrestor on your chimney, eliminating brush and debris from around your property, and modifying your attic, sub-floor and basement vents. More expensive improvements include replacing single-pane glass windows, doors or skylights with tempered glass, recovering your exterior walls with a more fire-resistant material, and re-roofing your home with a Class A roof covering.

Earthquake

California isn't the only earthquake zone. Other zones include the New Madrid region, west and just east of the Rockies, the southern Appalachians, New England and Alaska. Steps you can take to protect your property and possessions include anchoring appliances, water heater, dressers, and other heavy items to the wall. Attach your TV, computer and other small appliances to desks, tables or countertops. Secure ceiling lights, chandeliers and other hanging items to the permanent structure of your home. Apply safety film to windows and glass doors. It is also a good idea to install a main gas shut-off device.

Of course, there may be times, when no amount of prepping can protect your home. However, homeowners insurance can help protect you financially in case something happens to your property or its contents. Most standard homeowners insurance policies include structural coverage and personal property coverage. Depending on your location, you may also need additional coverage against earthquake, hurricane and fire.

Be aware that flood damage is not covered under the traditional homeowners insurance policy. Flood insurance needs to be purchased separately through the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP), a federal program. It is available to nearly 20,000 communities across the U.S. and its territories that participate in the NFIP. Flooding can be caused by heavy rains, melting snow, inadequate drainage systems, failed protective devices such as levees and dams, as well as by tropical storms and hurricanes. So, although you may be in a low to moderate risk area, you may still want to consider this coverage.

Periodically review your homeowner's insurance policy to make sure that you are adequately covered to rebuild your home and replace your contents. If there is ever damage to your personal property, having a home inventory can make it easier when filing an insurance claim. Start with a sheet a paper for each room in the house. Go around the room and list every item. Don’t forget the attic, basement or other storage places. For each item, write the original cost, purchase date, replacement cost, model number, brand name, where purchased, and a general description. In addition, take photos or video of each room for visual documentation. It is also a good idea to arrange valuable collections, silver, jewelry, etc. and take close up photos. Make sure you update your home inventory photos and list at least once a year.

When weather-related disasters strike, what's most important is your safety and that of your family. However, by taking precautions to protect your home, you can possibly help keep damage to a minimum; or in the case of severe damage, make sure that you have the financial means to rebuild.

For more information go to www.ibhs.org or www.fema.gov.

Neda Dabestani-Ryba is a licensed Realtor in Maryland. She is a member of the President's Circle of Top Real Estate Professionals. She can be reached at (800) 536-3806 or visit her website for more information: http://neda.dabestani.pcragent.com/ Prudential Carruthers REALTORS is an independently owned and operated member of Prudential Real Estate Affiliates, Inc., a Prudential Financial company. Equal Housing Opportunity

Adding An Electrical Box

and Hiding Cables Like A Pro

All the electronics on the market lately are filling up our homes. There is an increasing need for more electric outlets throughout our homes. Some useful tips on how to create an electrical extension are outlined in this article.

The most common need people have is adding an additional outlet box. They never are where you need them! As with anything electrical, take proper precautions against electrical shocks and know your local codes for proper cable types, shielding plates, etc.

Sometimes it just your lucky day and the room on the other side of wall has an outlet that is very close. Back to back is ideal but even one stud off is not a problem. Just make sure the circuit won't be overloaded by adding an additional set of plugs.

Use a stud finder and find out where the adjacent studs are for where you want to put the outlet box. Depending on the type of box you have, either cut out the proper size hole next to the stud or somewhere in the center. I prefer the renovation boxes with the tabs that are designed to fit in the drywall away from the studs. Align your box hole so it isn't directly behind the other box as two deep boxes won't fit back to back in a two by four stud wall.

If you are within the same studs, it is now a simple matter of running the proper wire or conduit from the old box to the new one. If you need to go one stud over, cutting your hole close to the stud makes it a little easier. From the box hole access, drill a hole in the center of the stud following proper guidelines to maintain structural integrity. Keep the hole size at a minimum and no more than 40% of the stud width.

If instead you want to extend power from an existing box in the room, there are several ways to run the wire between the boxes. One common method is to remove the baseboard trim. Then cut out some of the wall board behind the baseboard and make small notches (not to exceed 25% of the stud width) in each stud or drill holes in the center of each stud to run the cable for the extension. After installing the cable, make sure to use steel plates on each stud if you did notches to prevent any drywall screws from penetrating the wires.

If you drilled holes in the center and come to a corner, it can sometimes be problematic when it is solid. You need to drill a hole from each side until they meet. Then either fish something flexible through the hole or use two fish tapes with a hook on the end and get them to catch. Put lots of lube on the cable and pull it through.

Going around doors is a similar exercise. The best way is to remove the trim molding and usually there is enough room with minimal notching to run the cable around the door.

If you have a10BBttic or basement access, there is another way to run new cable. Drill holes through the plate where the existing circuit is and where you want to add an additional outlet. Sometimes you will run into fire stops or cross braces in the middle of the wall. If you are putting in a switch, many times you can get close enough from the switch box hole to drill through the brace. Otherwise you will need to cut out a small section of wallboard and make a notch.

There are a number of safe and effective ways to add electrical outlets throughout your home without damage and lots of work. With the use of smart safety procedures, following local codes, and some electrical work you can have extensions in all of the places your home needs.

Alison Leaderman is in charge of online marketing for Ready Electric Wholesale Lighting and Electrical Supplies business. Ready Electric is a well established electric supply company for contractors and has established an e-commerce website to serve both contractors and the public with discount lighting fixtures.

What Tape Do I Use

Vinyl Tapes Are Versatile, Tailored to Many Purposes

A vinyl tape can come in many forms -1C61 packaging tape, barrier tape, chart and map tapes, color-coding tapes, conspicuous reflective tapes, decorative tapes, electrical tapes, and so on.

We look at some of these purposes and tape characteristics in a little more detail below.

Sealing and Packaging Tape: These are used to package cartons and parcels, are usually self-adhesive, and come transparent or in different colors. Vinyl tapes are excellent for printing, and they can be printed with handling instructions or promotional messages.

Barrier Tape: Used to mark off restricted areas such as police investigation scenes, barricade tapes are wider, non-adhesive and come in highly visible colors and patterns.

Chart & Map Tapes: These adhesive vinyl tapes can be used on different surfaces to create charts, graphs, etc.

Color Coding Tapes: Colored plain vinyl tapes can be used for identificatory marking, on glassware and tools, on factory floors, and so on.

Reflective Tapes: Reflective tapes are used to make things conspicuous, such as vehicles parked in dark surroundings, for large trucks and trailers and other areas.

Decorative Tapes: These help add glitter to event venues. There are mirror tapes, glitter tapes, prismatic tapes, holographic tapes and such.

Electrical Tapes: Thicker than usual, these insulation tapes come in different colors, and protect you from electric shocks.

Camouflage Tapes: Where you want to merge into your surroundings, and avoid attracting unwanted attention from hunted animals or wildlife and such, easily-removed camouflage tapes in different patterns can come in handy. While camouflage tapes might not be vinyl tapes, some are coated with that material for special effects.

Flagging Tapes: Flagging tapes can be used for surveying, trail marking, search & rescue operations, forestry and environmental studies, for example.

Gaffer Tape: Made of vinyl impregnated cloth, the thick gaffer tape has high adhesion properties and is used to secure wires, cables and props at conventions, film shoots, etc.

Marking Tapes: Colored and striped marking tapes are used to mark out plant and warehouse floors, and for other applications. These tapes are highly resistant to heat and other degrading agents.

Hazard Tapes: Another kind of tape that has applications in plants and warehouses, these tapes are used to warn of physical hazards and to mark out areas by functions.

Conclusion

Vinyl is used for and in many kinds of tapes for a large number of applications. These tapes come in different colors, widths, patterns, thickness and other properties to meet the differing requirements of the applications. Vinyl tape is easy to print upon and is ideal as packaging tape, barrier tape and other applications where information needs to be printed on the tape itself. The printing facility can also be used for promotional purposes.

Then there are tapes that are highly reflective in the dark, or add glitter to events, serve as camouflage or insulate electrical contacts.

Vinyl tapes are thus a highly versatile item with many uses.

About Auther:
Anthony Abram writes about Vinyl Tape please visit our website for further details.

Drywalling Your House Ideas

Installing Drywall

Quality Photographs Help Sell Your Home Mortgage Lenders Help You Help Yourself The Problem Is Where Do Termites Live

Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the professionals usually refer to the task, can be done by the homeowner. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry.

Measuring and Ordering Drywall

Prior to actually hanging the drywall, the material first needs to be ordered and delivered. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. The result should give you the number of 4’x 8’ sheets of drywall required for the job. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4’x12’, however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home.

For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.

For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock.

Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects.

Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required. Typically I use 1.25” length screws or nails. Also, strips of corner bead will be required.

Drywall Tools

Prior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain the proper tools. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. You can rent Dryw all Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2”x 4”s. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than the height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3’ in width. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the main stem of the Jack. The Jack can then be used to hold up the drywall to the ceiling while it is screwed/nailed into place.

In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.

If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. For the taping knifes you will need a 6” wide blade and a 12” wide blade.

Preparing the site for Drywall

Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure the buildig inspector has first approved the Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.

Finally, inspect all of the framing carefully. Ensure that nailers (e.g. 2” x 4”s) are existent at each corner and header, that the framing is straight, and that the framed walls create smooth planes. In addition, the ceiling should have strapping applied (1” x 3” cross boards). Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire.

Safety

Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in the material. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades.

Installing Drywall

Start with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.g. 12 inches. It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field afterwards.

Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall.

After the ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to the walls. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. Again the rows should be staggered. The bottom piece should sit about ½ inches from the sub-floor.

For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. This will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save significant time.

Installing Corner bead

Once the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges. Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the framing.

Taping and Mudding

Again start with the ceiling. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6” wide taping knife. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Once the tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over the tape, again using the 6” wide taping knife. Continue this for all of the seams. Note: the tape will still be visible. Additional coats will eventually hide it.

The inside corners are usually the most tricky and require practice. Patience is the best advice and note that additional coats will be applied later to smooth out any imperfections.

Once the seams are done, using the 6” wide taping knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. A skim coat is all that is initially required.

Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. This will reduce sanding later.

Once the ceiling is done, you can move on to the walls. Repeat the same process, however with the outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint compound to the valley that is formed by the corner bead. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner.

Once the first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Second Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the second coat of mud. It is this coat that should hide the tape.

Again, start with the ceiling. Using the wider taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound over the taped seams as you want to build up the area over the tape. Taking large strokes smooth the joint compound over the tape applying more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape. This will help to leave more mud over the tape. When complete, the mud should cover an area that extends beyond the width of the tape by 2 to 3 inches.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.

For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the Corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Take long, even strokes. A 6” taping knife may also be helpful to smooth out any imperfections.

For the outside corners, using the broad taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and flare out the material such that it extends out 6 inches or so from the corner. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the outside corner.

Once the second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Final Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the final coat of mud. It is this coat that requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to the already mudded areas.

Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded surfaces. This will remove any bumps or ridges.

Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife. Again continue to flare out the seam by extending the mudded area such that about 6 inches resides on each side of the now invisible tape. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter.

For the corners use the broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples.

Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,

Sanding

Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask. I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud.

Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into the main surface areas.

Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the dust and you are ready for priming and painting the walls and texturing the ceilings.

Me_Donovan@comcast.net
http://www.homeadditionplus.com
http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com/

Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. Mr. Donovan's formal education and profession have been as an Electrical Engineer and Marketing Manager.

Finishing a House

Buying an Unfinished Home Maybe Your Answer
By: Mark J. Donovan



For the first time “want-to-be” homeowner, purchasing an unfinished new home maybe just the answer. With mortgage interest rates still at record lows, there has not been a better time to purchase a home in decades. However, home prices have dramatically risen over the past several years, and even with low interest rates, for some the dream of owing one’s own home has still remained out of reach.

Purchasing an unfinished home can save tens of thousands of dollars, thus enabling some prospective homeowners the opportunity to buy a house that they may not have otherwise afforded. Unfinished homes are particularly attractive to young couples with no children and who have limited financial resources. The unfinished home concept allows the young couple to grow/finish the home as their family and financial resources do. In addition, if the new homeowners are willing to put in sweat equity they can save significantly on finishing the home.

Typically an unfinished home has a completed kitchen, living room, bath, and at least one bedroom. This is pretty much required by mortgage lenders and buildig inspectors as the home would otherwise be considered unacceptable for living standards. In many two story unfinished homes, the entire upstairs maybe left unfinished.

When purchasing an unfinished home there are a few items to consider first, such as; what is the expected timeline for finishing the house, what is the expected completed floor plan and who will complete it. All these questions should be answered prior to signing a Purchase and Sales agreement. For example, if more bedrooms will be required prior to when the homeowner anticipates finishing the home, then an unfinished home purchase may not be the right solution. Secondly, ask the builder/prior homeowner for a copy of the floor plan of the completed home. Usually a builder/prior homeowner has these, and it will help immensely when the time comes to complete the unfinished space. Changes to these floor plans are typically feasible, however, it is important to talk with the buildig inspector prior to beginning the project. Also, in the case of new construction, you may want to negotiate with the builder to complete a portion of the unfinished area, such as the rough framing, electric or plumbing. Finally, you need to determine who will complete the work and assess how much, if any, sweat equity you are willing to contribute. In either case, building permits will need to be pulled prior to any work.

Purchasing an unfinished home can be the means to fulfilling the American dream. For many, it is also a way to buy a larger home, once completed. For others, it enables them to not sacrifice quality in their initial home purchase. Whatever the reason, the purchase of an unfinished home has traditionally been an excellent investment.

About The Author


Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com.